The point of face making ready

As any professional who works with adhesives knows, exterior making ready is one of the most vital elements in achieving a high bond drive and optimising endurance and lifespan of bonded joints. Dissimilar substrate materials will want Dissimilar types of adhesives for bonding and Dissimilar methods of exterior preparation. Some surfaces may want nothing more than having the dust brushed away, while others may need interpret exterior making ready procedures prior to bonding.

Whatever materials you work with, it's a good idea to equip yourself with a broad knowledge of exterior preparation. Even when not much exterior making ready is required, going the extra few steps may make a big difference in consistency and effectiveness of your adhesive bond.

Sand Blasters

Paint removal

The point of face making ready

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Customer Reviews

*** Product Information and Prices Stored: Aug 07, 2012 05:30:05

Most adhesives want that you at least remove the paint from the exterior before application. Even when it appears easy to just apply adhesive epoxy directly on top of the paint, it's a good idea to remove the paint, nonetheless, as when the paint peels, so will your adhesive.

Obviously, some paint thinner will get the job started. From there it may be a matter of scraping with a razor blade or paint scraper. However, you may wind up needing to remove paint from a fairly delicate exterior or something fragile that you'd rather not take a paint scraper to.

To remove paint from delicate surfaces and small components, it may be potential with many paints to use a toothbrush and some thinner to remove the paint without damaging the surface.

Rust removal

Removing rust mainly requires a good rust cleaner with oxalic acid. Try out a few brands and see what you like best. Make sure to use rubber gloves and goggles, as this stuff can be pretty abrasive.

Use a wire brush and the cleaner to scrub away the rust.

Depending on the extent of the damage caused by the rust and the adhesive you're using, you may have to sand (or preferably abrade) the area down to a level exterior before applying the adhesive.

It's a good idea after all this sanding and brushing to give your metal exterior a good clean off with a clean cloth and some acetone or isopropanol - these act as a good degreaser and evaporate to leave a clean, dry, contamination-free exterior to bond to.

Many metals form an invisible oxide layer which can on chance be quite weak. It is a good idea to abrade and degrease all metals before bonding if possible. Use carborundum paper to abrade metal (similar to sand paper but more robust and less messy). If you have a lot to abrade, using a grit blaster is a good idea so as not to end up with arms like an Olympic shot-putter.

Sanding

Okay, we all know how to sand, more or less, but there are a few tricks you can apply to enhance your sanding kung fu...

Some general tips for sanding:

Use high potential paper. It tends to last longer and be more effective.

Always start with the big, chunky, base papers and work your way down to the finer grain papers. The coarser papers will even out the exterior while the finer papers will level it down.

Tap the dust off of your sanding paper now and then to keep the grit from construction up and scratching the exterior or impeding the paper's progress.

Some tips for abrading metal:

Before abrading remove grease from metal surfaces with acetone or isopropanol - this prevents you embedding the grime any further.

Use carborundum paper rather than sandpaper, starting with a rough grade to remove the bulk of the oxide layer and then a fine grade to get a good finish.

When dry abrading, don't push down on the paper. Apply a light touch and let the paper do the work.

For a more consistent surface, don't just sand in one direction, use an even, circular motion to give the adhesive a good exterior to "key" into.

When wet abrading, apply a tiny bit of pressure and short strokes, use fullness of water, and don't let the exterior dry while sanding. It is leading to dry the metal straightaway afterwards to preclude rusting.

Cleaning

Of course, you need a clean surface. If you've got a layer of dirt on both surfaces, all you're doing is sticking dirt to dirt.

The main task at hand is just removing any dust, grease, or mould, so anything that gets the job done is fine. Know your surfaces and how to clean them. However, some surfaces you may not be able to visibly see dirt or contamination - there may be traces of release agent if the component has been moulded or silicone-based cleaning agents which can be gift on glass surfaces. Using an isopropanol wipe before bonding will set your mind at ease.

Make indeed distinct that the exterior is one hundred percent dry, unless, of course, you're using a moisture-curing adhesive.

The point of face making ready

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